Abu Hasaan

I'm back in Israel! This time, living on my own. Earlier this year, while my roommate and I browsed craigslist desperately in search of budget living options, I had only one requirement: that our summer digs be at least within a reasonable range of Abu Hasaan, my favorite place in the whole world.

The hummus culture of Israel is defining; a crucial part of eating in this country is understanding and appreciating a hummusia (a hummus joint). At a real, classic, Arab hummusia, hummus is the only item on the non-existent menu. You can order hummus in any way you want: with ful (beans), with egg, with hot sauce. My favorite is when there's a masabacha option, a hummus variant that is creamier. Usually, a good hummus plate comes with zatar, charif spice, full chickpeas, and puddles of olive oil. On the side, obviously a big pile of pita is a requirement, but usually a plate of onion, tomato and pickles arrive too.

Here's when you know good hummus: when you don't need the pita because you'd rather eat the whole plate like soup with a spoon. 

The hummus debate in Israel becomes personal, fast. Everyone has their favorite hummusia and their preferred way of eating each delicious bowl. There's obviously Abu Shukri located centrally in Jerusalem's old city, where the hummus comes with falafel balls. Then there's Hummus Said in Akko, with the creamiest and softest chickpeas you'll ever find. But in my mind, there's no competition: Yaffo's Abu Hasaan is, far and away, the best hummus in Israel.

All of these people lined up outside at 11 am seem to agree:

The restaurant is just these few tables, where everyone crams in with strangers at any open seat opportunity. You sit next to who ever is there and watch them scoop up the last drops of hummus as you wait impatiently for yours to arrive. Although the wait is short: you order your plate on the way to your seat, and usually by the time you're settled, a fresh plate is already on its way.
Simplicity is beauty.
And here it is! A full plate of masabacha. This plate just melted in my mouth, a perfect blend of all the different ingredients that are meant to be joined. The olive oil seeps into the eggy puree, and gets accentuated by the spices on top. It's actually.. perfect. I like to cut up little onion pieces for a little zest, but to each his own. 
Abu Hasaan is only open from 11-3, so go quick. You'll be bursting with heaviness after your plate, but you won't mind. If you have the will power, walk up the street and buy a knafe at the dessert shop up the street.

Peace, love and hummus.